Eat, Drink, and Be Myrrhy

Eaters lucky enough to score a coveted seat at Milk & Myrrh, Ifrah Ahmed’s pop-up restaurant, are treated to a bevy of East African flavors from the Somali American writer and chef. Menus in Seattle, New York City, and Los Angeles have featured signature dishes like coconut soor (corn grits) with xawaash-braised short ribs, crab sambuus, mussels in dalac bilaash (tomato stew) served with traditional corn flatbread called muufo, and upside-down banana cardamom cake. Every meal is accompanied by a vibrant Somali soundtrack.

Raised in Seattle in a prominent Somali community, Ifrah transitioned out of law school to create these culinary experiences rooted in her heritage. These dishes serve as a great introduction for those new to this East African country’s fare. Somali cuisine is a product of trade and commerce, as well as rich diversity among the regions scattered across the expansive landscape. Distinct flavors include cardamom, cumin, coriander, and cilantro—you can find most of these in the staple spice blend xawaash—alongside ingredients like tamarind, mango, banana, coconut, and camel meat and milk.

In Los Angeles, Ifrah hatched the concept of the anjero burrito, inspired by her memories of eating the fermented crepe-like bread at the breakfast table and her love of the Tex-Mex classic. She wrapped xawaash-spiced mushroom, kale, and sweet potatoes or egg and fuul (fava bean stew) in anjero and served them with basbaas, a green hot sauce. The burritos sold out every week of the inaugural six-week run.

If you haven’t had a chance to try Ifrah’s food, you will soon: Soomaaliya, her debut cookbook filled with recipes, interviews, and stories paying homage to Somalia’s distinct culinary culture, will be out next year. Here, she talks about the connective nature of cuisine, her first American food experience, and what it means to be culturally authentic when creating dishes from home in a new one.