Chef Esu Lee considers my questions about spices, produce, and ingredients as if he’s turning a knob in his brain, searching for the perfect radio station. He sits back with a relaxed smile, foot resting on his seat, as he contemplates analogies for everything that went into the spring menu for his new restaurant, [Jip]. Is this spice a chaperone or a guru? Is this ingredient a villain or the foil? We take the time together to find the right words. This is the Parisian way.
“Paris has lots of signals floating around in the air, and if you don’t get connected, you only hear the noise,” he says. “But if you get connected really well, it has the best stations.”
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