Uh-oh, Memori-os
Canned foods and era-specific pantry items constitute major core memories for most of us, the kind where simply seeing a particular label can conjure up not only a flavor, but even more so, a feeling. Go ahead and feast on nostalgia, can opener not required.
Illustrations by Evah Fan
Chris Verteri
Born in NY; lives in Edinburgh, Scotland
“I remember seeing the stacks of Tuttorosso crushed tomatoes in both my grandparents’ basements. They used it to make red gravy—cooked meatballs and pork ribs right in there.”
Amy Chu
Born in NYC; lives in NYC
“My mom is from Hong Kong, and we always had Spam in the pantry. We’d eat it sliced thin in Wonder bread sammies or diced and fried with egg and rice. Also fried dace in black beans from the Asian grocer, which I still keep in my pantry for emergencies—steamed over rice with a fried egg is classic!”
Tyna Hoang
Born in Siagon, Vietnam; lives in L.A. + Brooklyn
“Sardines in tomato sauce and Longevity condensed milk were staples in my house, both eaten with hot, fresh báhn mi.”
Evi Abler
Born in Oldenburg, Germany; lives in NYC
“Die Echte Mockturtle. I grew up in Germany, and we would often eat this delicious mystery soup. Nobody in my family spoke English or was curious about the name. We thought it was a brand. Mockturtle—it’s such a bizarre concept! I never dared to research its origins or ingredients. I had forgotten about it until I saw a version of it on the shelves of a U.S. supermarket.”
Sammy Castillo
Born in L.A.; lives in Pasadena, CA
“We used to put Nesquik on cereals like Corn Flakes or Kix. It was a way to sweeten it and give it a chocolatey flavor. My parents used to tell us that it was exactly the same thing as the expensive cereals, since we were only getting WIC-approved* foods when we were growing up.”
*WIC is the U.S. government’s Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children.
Sherman Lee
Born in Taiwan; lives in L.A.
“Taiwanese fried gluten with peanuts that my mom would buy from 99 Ranch, or, when we lived in Taiwan, at whatever market we found it in. I’d eat it with homemade congee. It wasn’t real congee though, it was just rice boiled in water until it was thick. Sometimes my mom would add salt or sweet potato.”
Maria DeGuzman
Born in Takoma Park, MD; lives in Pasadena, CA
“I remember being left alone at home as a kid and only having Vienna sausages or canned corned beef. My sister and I would try different ways to eat them. My fave was corned beef with white onions and potatoes and Vienna sausages sliced lengthwise, crisped, and dipped in ketchup.”
George Colburn
Born in Bremerton, WA; lives in L.A.
“Simple—sardines, rice, and seaweed. Plus, canned peaches for dessert. I loved drinking the syrup.”
Bianca Cruz
Born in Brooklyn; lives in Brooklyn
“I am a die-hard fan of farina. The porridge warms my soul. We used Cream of Wheat, milk, and sugar. I usually zhuzh it up with butter and brown sugar. My aunties and any elders in my family would always make this for the kids, ’cause it was easy and delish. We were also taught to eat it in a very specific way—it’s served on a plate, and we’d always eat it outside-in ’cause the borders cool quicker than the center. Truly my favorite childhood meal.”
