Soul Mates
Are rice and beans the ultimate comfort foods? We kind of think so. Whether it’s the sound of beans simmering on the stovetop, the aroma of rice fried up for dinner, or a piping hot bowl of both, everything about these familiar dishes embodies the idea of home.
Illustrations by PatPatKate (Kalee Chung)
Daniela Swamp
Born in San Juan, Puerto Rico; lives in L.A.
“White rice and Puerto Rican stewed red or pink beans with pumpkin and ham were always on the stove at my grandma Bubi’s house. During the holidays and at family gatherings, her arroz con gandules was highly coveted.”
Doaa Elkady
Born in Cairo; lives in NYC
“There wouldn’t be a single Egyptian out there without breakfast memories of fuul. It is our version of refried beans. There are so many varieties and ways to top it; even the texture is a passionate topic of debate. It’s the core of Egyptian food—vegetarian, hearty, warming, and flavorful.”
Issha Marie
Born in Quezon City, Philippines; lives in Vancouver, B.C.
“Arroz caldo is a popular porridge we eat in the Philippines, similar to Chinese congee but with tons of garlic and ginger. Whenever I got a fever or a bad cold, my parents would make this; it’s the Filipino version of chicken noodle soup. My family’s version always contained either turmeric or safflower, mostly for color, and this is how I make the dish to this day. I associate arroz caldo with comfort and nourishment. Recently, when I got diagnosed with cervical cancer, arroz caldo was one of the few dishes I made myself when I had the energy to cook, and it was the dish I ate regularly during chemo.”
Ellen Hollingshurst
Born in Cambridgeshire, England; lives in Cardiff, Wales
“Baked beans on toast with cheese. Reminds me so much of my childhood post-winter swims.”
Jess Wang
Born in Dallas; lives in L.A.
“My earliest encounters with rice and beans were in the form of mochi cakes and eight-treasure rice. My favorite was my mom’s baked version of mochi made with red bean paste and a buttery batter.”
Grace Danico
Born in Whittier, CA; lives in L.A.
“If I need something fast: fried rice! It’s like the little black dress of dinners—dress it up with eggs, veggies, and meats, or keep it simple with just garlic. Whatever way I fry it, my family wants to try it.”
Cyndi Choi
Born in L.A.; lives in L.A.
“I like eating pat sirutteok (a layered rice cake with red adzuki beans) with 젓갈 (jeotgal) and kimchi. My grandma would always get some for lunch, and we would eat it when I would go over to her house.”
Christiane Hur
Born in São Paolo; lives in L.A.
“Feijoada—black beans stewed with pork, cured beef, and aromatics—is considered one of Brazil’s national dishes. It was created by enslaved Africans in the time of colonization. They would take parts of the pork the colonizers did not want—ears, trotter, tails, nose, etc.—and that’s how feijoada came to be! In my city, São Paulo, it’s typically served on Wednesdays and Saturdays for lunch with a side of sautéed collard greens; farofa (a savory preparation of toasted cassava flour); a fresh salsa made from tomatoes, onions, bell pepper, and the broth of the stewed beans; and slices of orange.”
Alejandra Alarcón
Born in Tamaulipas, Mexico; lives in Helsinki
“I remember coming home from school, my mom would have lunch ready for us. I would open the pots on the stove and see beans, arroz, and nopales— the combination is an all-time favorite. Something so simple but made with the freshest ingredients. I love how the beans soak the rice and how the sour taste of nopales complements the dish.”
Shreema Mehta
Born in Long Island, NY; lives in Brooklyn
“Gujarati-style daal—it’s very simple, made with toor daal (pigeon peas), ideally garnished with cilantro and a squeeze of lemon. We would eat it almost every night after the roti and vegetable, or alongside to dip roti in. It’s a great blend of sweet, savory, and spicy.”
