Desert Gems

Cultivating crops, community, and culture at Ramona Farms.

“Our mission is to bring our foods to the table,” says Ramona Button, the stoic matriarch of Ramona Farms, an American Indian traditional crop producer in Arizona. “My father, along with others, farmed small fields on the reservation, so in a way, agriculture has always been a part of us.” While working as a nurse, Ramona dabbled in farming projects with her husband, Terry—an eye-opening experience that inspired her commitment to cultivation. “It was during this time that I realized the decline in health due to a lack of wholesome diet,” she says. “I knew that our community needed sources of food for good health and jobs to foster economic growth.” Thus, Ramona Farms was born.

For 50 years, Ramona and her family have been growing crops that are core to American Indian cuisine on their land in Sacaton, a close-knit community located on the Gila River reservation, just under an hour from Phoenix. The Buttons are known for their traditional crops like wheat and corn pinoles, heritage corn varieties, and garbanzo beans. But perhaps the most significant crop they offer is the tepary bean, and its place in the farm’s crop rotation is a story of celebrating the culture of the O’odham tribe and the power of community to preserve tradition.

“Tepary beans are an ancient staple for our people. It has been a mainstay in our diets and has been embraced by the community in the past,” Ramona says. Yet the beans were nearly extinct, nowhere to be found on the Gila River reservation when Ramona was approached by community elders. “People would tell us, ‘We can’t find them anywhere, we need them, please grow them for us,’” says Ramona. After finding the planting seeds her father had saved, that’s exactly what she did.

The farm has always been a family affair, with immediate and extended members helping to manage the daily operations. “Farming is our family’s legacy and an important part of our culture,” says Ramona. Brandy Button (pictured right with her mom), Ramona and Terry’s daughter who manages the farm’s office and special projects, says, “I’ve been involved with the business since I was 14 years old. I left and went to college, went to culinary school, and came back to support the family.” Velvet, one of Brandy’s sisters, showcases the farm’s products locally and across the country. Another sister, Maria, is in charge of quality control; Uncle Karl is the production manager; and Uncle Dale is a tillage operator, planting, planning, and harvesting the tepary beans. Aunt Karen manages the accounting systems and online store—where you can find sweet, buttery, white tepary beans (stotoah bavi), a firm and meaty black variety (s-chuuk bavi), and a number of heritage corn items, including whole roasted Pima corn kernels (huun ga’i) and red or blue parched cornmeal. The family also employs community members , like irrigation manager Danny Mark, who has worked on the farm since 1983.

The Buttons are committed to economically stimulating the community and helping Americans learn more about indigenous crops and how to incorporate them into their diet. “We are doing the work of our ancestors, and it’s important to honor their traditions,” Brandy says. Ramona adds: “Ramona Farms has been able to steward and protect our small family farm, and we have been true to our beliefs while holding onto and protecting our traditional foods.”

This article originally appeared in Issue 2: Rice & Beans, available now in our shop.